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Restaurant Review: Skosh, York

Updated: Apr 9

Over its 800+ years, at least six monarchs have entered York through Micklegate Bar, the city's monumental Medieval gateway. It's appropriate, then, that just down the street, Skosh is serving up meals that are fit for a king.

Skosh, York, food: pork satay

What to expect at Skosh

Situated on York’s historic Micklegate, Skosh produces magnificent, modern British food with international influences. The Grade II listed building is anything but pompous. Wooden tables and understated white walls, peppered with modern artwork, augment an atmosphere that is chic yet relaxed. There is an open kitchen, with the option of ‘chef’s table’ seating, where you can watch the maestros in action.

What’s to eat at Skosh?

‘Skosh’ is a taken from the Japanese ‘sukoshi’, meaning ‘small amount’, and the menu solely comprises snacks and small plates for sharing (around six or seven between two is recommended). But don’t expect to be left disappointed… though small in size, the dishes are enormous in flavour!

Chef Patron Neil Bentinck describes his cooking as ‘precise yet playful’. We agree, but it’s so much more than that. Whilst showcasing the best-quality British produce, Bentinck draws on influences from all over the world. To give just a few examples from our visit, the menu featured Japanese kuri kare pan, Chinese-inspired ‘xianjing’ dumplings and Middle Eastern pistachio dukkah. Incredibly, it works! The dishes are wonderfully balanced, clever and delicious.

The final surprise is that dinner at Skosh won’t break the bank, as its well-deserved Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand status attests to. When we visited, the priciest dish on the menu was £25, but they start at as little as £4.50. View the menu here, then immediately make a reservation here!

What’s to drink at Skosh?

The drinks menu at Skosh is succinct but considered, with a decent choice of red, white, orange, sparkling and sweet wines. A good variety of bottled ales are on offer, all sourced from Yorkshire breweries. Lagers, ciders, cocktails, non-alcoholic beers and soft drinks are also available. The drinks menu can be viewed here.

Skosh, York, food: lamb and mushroom dumplings

What did we have at Skosh?

Our dinner at Skosh was marvellous. We ordered six plates between two, accompanied by pints of Hambleton Brewery’s (Ripon) excellent Stallion Amber Best Bitter and a pleasant French orange wine. In traditional tapas style, dishes arrived as soon as they were prepared by the kitchen.

First, we had ‘xianjing’ lamb and mushroom Chinese-style dumplings. These were two little parcels of delight – savoury, rich lamb filling inside wonderfully chewy dough. They were served in a clear lamb broth, full of flavour, alongside mushroom puree and raw mushrooms. We could’ve eaten a whole bowl of these!

Skosh, York, food: monkfish sashimi

From the ‘Snacks’ menu, we had the wild monkfish sashimi. Bright white raw monkfish loins, lightly cured and sliced thinly, were generously dressed in an ochre vinaigrette of grapefruit and mirin. Pretty pink radishes, grapefruit segments and mint-green wasabi yoghurt ice cream transform the plate into a riot of colour. It was all delicious, but the wasabi ice cream, in particular, was a revelation!

Skosh, York, food: trout with clementines

Next, our ‘Fish’ choice: flawlessly pan-fried chalk-stream trout cooked with clementine segments. It sounds like a strange combination, but, wow, it worked! Spiced parsnip and ginger puree provided an earthy undertone, whilst some crunchy texture came from raw parsnip strips and crushed nuts. A triumph!

Skosh, York, food: beef sirloin with chimichurri

The first of our picks from the ‘Meat’ options was salt-aged beef sirloin. The succulent, rare sirloin was bedecked with fat, juicy pink oyster mushrooms. A piquant, herby chimichurri sauce was an inspired contrast to the rich meat and mushrooms.

Finally, the two dishes of the day... we couldn’t agree on which was best! (Both are pictured in the first image above). From the ‘Veg’ menu, we had potato terrine. These were heavenly, thick, square slabs of thinly sliced, soft potato, compressed and fried to create a crispy exterior. Luxurious brown butter hollandaise sauce and a sour yuzu kick set these of perfectly. These were brought to the table along with our final dish: pork belly satay skewers. The pork belly was divine – soft and yielding meat with wonderfully rendered fat, all of which melted in the mouth. These were mounted upon a beautifully flavoursome satay sauce, topped with toasted peanuts and accompanied by a bowl of piquant pickled carrot discs. An amazing end to a royally good feast!

Where can I find Skosh?

Skosh is on York’s historic Micklegate, less than a 15-minute walk from York train station, the popular Shambles Market and the magnificent York Minster. For drivers, NCP Tanner Row Car Park is a handy 3 minutes away.

Skosh, York: Summary

- Fantastic quality, modern food

- ‘Small plates’ concept

- Local ales

- York city centre

- Parking nearby

Where can I find out more information or make a reservation?

For the latest news, follow Skosh on Facebook and Instagram. For opening times or to make a reservation, see their website.

What do you think of Skosh in York? Get in touch to give us York restaurant recommendations for us to review on our blog!

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